September 8th

I Dropped Susan at Palm Springs Airport at 5.50am and Returned the car. It’s back on the bike for me, at last. I have missed it a lot. My GPS finally arrived back from Garmin at 9.30am just in time for me to head out for Phoenix. Thanks to Joe in tech support there who had them ship overnight. I got on the I 10 at 11.00 heading for Glendale Phoenix Arizona. I was going to call in on Jesse Lugage. Jesse manufacture adventure motorcycle lugage. The big metal box type that look like they could go any where, they are considered the best avaiable and are in Glendale. I had been looking at ebay but nothing suitable at an afordable price came up so I decided to go for the best Jesse's. I found Jesse’s easily but the factory was closed and it was a Friday?. I knocked on the unit next door and was told they closed on Fridays but that Jesse was there and brought me around the back, sure enough the man him self was in setting up a new press they had recently bought. We chatted apparently he ran the factory on a 4 day 12 hour shift and had a 3 day weekend, unless there was a big order to full fill. But no problem he had all the parts there and was happy to take a mixture of sterling and dollars. He pulled the bike into the factory and the 2 of us stripped it down removing the BMW pannier system. (He shipped them back to my brothers in Boston) It took about an hour to fit the bracketing and the new bags, they are superb. large, strong, light and a very low centre of gravity so the bike handles well even fully loaded. The whole setup about Ł500 a real bargain as in the UK it would cost nearly double. The BMW set I was watching on ebay went for $950 and they are nowhere near as good. At 17:00 I headed out to Tucson and the border. Night is setting in quick, it was dark by 18:30 so I stopped at the Picacho camp site just out side Tucson it was $17 a nigh and good clean showers a must in the heat. Across the road Eddies bar, beer at $1.50 a UK pint, and good music to. It was just what I need to get back it the swing of my journey. Ron the barman’s family were from Armagh. So even more beer flowed.

September 9th

I headed for the Border only stopping for a few minutes to pick up a couple of small duffel bags to hold my tent and sleeping bag on top off the Jesse bags. The Border town was just like all others. a mess. It reminded me of Andora 30 years ago or Cairo now. It was packed, street sellers and rubbish everywhere, pot holes in the road so big you could lose a car. It only lasted a mile or so and it was back to a decent road and heading to the customs area about 20km further down the road where I had to buy my Mexican insurance, bike permit, visa etc total cost Ł45 for 10days insurance and 1 month import of the bike. I had decided to get as far south as I could on the first day so I took the 15 a toll road and paid a total of $15 to get 300miles south, expensive but it got me well into Mexico and hopefully out of the trouble areas. I stopped the night at the Best Western Motel in Navojoa. Ł26 a nigh B&B with dinner and beer Ł8.

September 10th<

I wake up in Mexico, its hot, humid and green. There's been a big storm in this area only a week ago and its still recovering (If it was the USA it would take them a year, here a week.). The country is poor, that's obvious but not a lot poorer than the States. The people seem a lot friendlier not rushing around trying to make money so much. They are also learning English, until recently it was not taught as standard in Mexican schools, now it’s on the curriculum, and the general education standard in rising fast. In a few years’s the Mexicans will be the brains in North America and the Americans the ones washing the floors, as the standard of education in the States is zero.

I have stayed the night at a Best Western motel in Navojoa an industrial town with not a lot to see, but the motel has good wireless internet so it’s a chance to update the site. Today I am travelling up to Alamos a small town in the hills that has some historical significance and looks nice so I am told. Alamos, is a very nice Mexican town up in the hills. A nice church, town squar and a theater. I only stayed a short time took some pictures and headed back to the 15 and south.

My plan is to head south on the 15 and then switch to the 40 and into central Mexico as I intend to visit the prymids.

I stoped for the night in Guamuchil staying in the XXXXXX hotel, its definitly seen better days. The hotel is clean and no bugs in the room that I can see. The cost 300 pescos about Ł15 so its getting cheaper. For Dinner a iced fruit juice, 7 pescos (30pence) it was great just like those at the airport for Ł3. a spicey sausage soup very nice followed by 3 beef soft shell taco's with all the trimmings and 2 bottles of pepsi total cost 60pescos (Ł3) and much nicer than Chitiques in CMK. I had detoured from the 15 to the coast to Bahia Navachiste the area had suffered from a lot of flooding and was very squalid. A perfect paved road led right up to each village in the area and then stoped. The villages were shanty towns, and the work seemed to be fishing. The people were very polite and the best english speaking mexicans i have met, even the football pitch was still under water.

The bugs are definitly getting bigger, I can spot the spider crossing the road at 20m and the lizzards seem to know the road is dangerous as the cross at very hight speed. Beetles or Cockroaches are about 2" long and just wander around you check none have got into bed before you first and in the restraunts they just push them outside.

11th September

I headed out early today 7:00 to miss the Monday morning traffic. I was aiming to get to Durango, but made the decision to go on the ”Libra” roads (no toll) the 15 (Libra) to Mazatlan was no problem A fast clear “A “road in the European mould. I rode through severely Towns and the kids were ready for school. They all wear uniforms here, and are very smart. You wonder how when the homes they live In are tiny shacks by our standards and work is scarce. Even the most Primitive villages had groups of children waiting for the bus all very well dressed. I turned East onto the 40 Libra and started climbing the road is great But the 480k to Durango was going slow as I twisted and turned to 2500m. The road is currently been upgraded even though it’s far better than the American roads and well maintained. The river fiords are been bridged So some of the fun will end. I crossed one fiord running 20m wide by 0.5m Deep which was just the cooling down I needed. Another hazard is cattle, donkeys and horses. They just seem to graze on the road side as opposed to climbing the hill side.

Eventually I decided to stop at a small posada (motel) “The Samantha” In Palmitto, a village not on the map. It was 300 pesos’ for the nights stay. No phones or mobile network. No internet and limited TV a great place. I then found out it was a dry town, no beer. The food was good though So a chance to catch up with my notes.

On the way up I had passed through the town of Concorda, it must be the rocking chair capital of the world. The main road through was rocking chair buyers heaven, all styles colours and quality. The village of Palmito is at 1940m altitude, while I was there the clouds rolled in, thunder, lighting, Wind, and 10 minutes later was gone and the weather good again.

September 12th

I was up early and on the road by 6am, stopping at a small café 10k up the road for breakfast. My broken Spanish got the coffee right but not they eggs on toast so it was behind the cooker put the eggs on, got a roll, split it put in the grill, the girls thought it great and finished it off perfectly. Fed for 80pence I hit the road.

The town of Durango was still 200k away and it was all above 2500m topping out at 2800m of cliff side road, absolute breath taking. I passed through several towns that were very squalid and dilapidated. They were built onto hill sides and there was a heavy military presence. The population of this mountainous area was very high considering the location and made more surprising by the situation in Zacatecas only 200k away. The area of Zacatecas borders Durango but it was like chalk and cheese. The land is fertile and cultivated, Great Plains with all sorts of vegetation growing, field as far as the eye could see. There were very few farms even though from hill tops I could clearly see 50km; it was as if it was all one farm. The area was very clean and the town half empty but tidy. Buildings of brick and concrete were lying empty with out doors, windows, and roofs but clean. The shops were stocked with new tractors and car show rooms dotted the highway. Considering the situation only one hour before it was very surreal and makes you wander what’s going on with the politics.

I crossed the Tropic of Cancer again for some reason they mark it with a big white concrete sphere. I stopped for the night in Zacatecas in a travel motel. These are an interesting twist on a traditional motel were you enter a walled compound and drive into your private garage which you lock from the inside and has access to you apartment. 250pecso’s. 2 beers and a burger meal delivered to my room 70pescos. Total cost Ł16. I had enquired at 2 hotels in the town they quoted a $100 US a night as it was coming up on Mexico day the 16th September. I said no as I consider Ł50 a night high just to get internet access on their computer. For some reason the motel chains that operate on the coast road with wireless access are not in the central areas.

13th September

To day I try to find the Pyramids’. I headed into Mexico city, its big. A large shopping mall was just off the highway and only 30mins from the Pyramids so I though, stay there the night !!. There were heavily armed guards all around the mall, I drove in went to the hotel it was $110 a night , No way, so I spend 30 minutes trying to get out of the complex. Apparently they consider it high class hence the security. To me it was a cheap CMK. I head straight to the Pyramids site as I suspected there would be plenty of hotels around it. The town of Teotihuacan was great, a real Mexican town I booked into a Hotel on the way in that was $65 a nigh still very high but they had internet and secure parking and it was 5 minutes from the site and town centre. 2 hours after booking in it became apparent I could not update the web site, a problem with ftp transfers, I could at least do my email and talk to home on Skype.

On the highway my GPS mount had broken due to all the vibration from 16500 miles and me pushing it out when I lifted the tank bag to fill the tank. I brought it into town and a small electric motor winding company operating out of a shack fixed me up a replacement in 30 minutes and charged Ł2.50p. a phone charger for my Nokia phoneŁ3, some things here are very cheap. I took a picture of the lads who made the bracket it will be post on the site.

Dinner was a prawn chilli dish with a lot of Victoria beer and a good time with Maria-Anna her boy friend a corporal in the Mexican army and the restraunt owner, Diago, and 2 other lads. They tried teaching me Spanish and Mexican Dancing and me them English. I had gone to the Pyramid site on arriving in the town but it closed early due to rain, however it was opening again at 6:30 in the morning.

September 14th

I was up early talking to home and fixing my new GPS mount to the bike, by 7:00 I was walking up the Temple of the Sun in full motorcycle armour it was hot but manageable and really impressed the Army guys who had already drooled over the bike, especially when they realised I had just rode down from Alaska. One thing about the Mexicans they are all into macho, and me standing 6’2” in my Motorcycle boots and Black leather Armour defiantly look the part. I have never once been held or questioned by the police or Army despite been through dozens of road blocks and when I stop then to ask direction to hotels etc they are always very helpful and very complimentary about the bike.

After taking film and pictures from the top of the Sum Temple it was off to Mexico City I wanted to see what it was like, its great very big in fact the biggest city in the world 70 million people. I rode straight through it the traffic it was manageable and it’s a very lively place. There are lots of green parks in the city and most of the traffic is Green VW Beetle taxies or VW mini buss there must be thousands of them. Most people don’t have a car hence the density of the population. The city works it was clean at least as clean as London, there were no bad smells. I rode up into the Hill districts on the south side, these look like shanty towns from a distance. When you are in them their not bad at all, every thing you need is at hand, half the shop fronts are open during the day selling tyres, oil, wood, cloths etc and the other half open in the evening Snack bars, Ladies shops etc. Several of the yard doors were open and all were really smart inside despite the exterior look. They were a tiled courtyard surrounded by the rooms. The children were once again going home from school all very smart in their uniforms. Despite the roads only been 10’ wide their were still some parents trying to pick the kids up in Large 4*4’s??.

I left Mexico City at lunch time and took the back roads to Puebla. The difference this side of the country is unbelievable its like been in Europe, I climbed to 3200m my highest so far in beautiful country side. Puabla is only 60km from Mexico City, but it could be 6000km it is very clean and modern. The housing is European; there are normal coffee shops and shopping centres and no Army or gun carrying police insight. The hotels are the same as back home and I booked into a new Mexican style motel for 200pescos ( Ł10) a night and its got internet access. There is a giant VW car plant here, properly for making taxis?.

The Bike is running better than ever I recon the American public are been conned big time. The bike ran perfectly in Canada and Alaska never missed a beat, I crossed the border into Washington State and it started missing on tick over, then it was below par on power in Salt lake, i put it down to the altitude 5000', the garages said you lost 20% at that altitude.

Well it all rubbish, one tank of 87 grade fuel in Mexico and the bike was running correctly now 2000 miles later at 10,000, altitude its running better than ever and on plain old 87 octane with no additives. The handling with the Jesse bags is great and because they are narrower that the bars I was able to filter through the citys with no problem.

Total Mileage To date 16500

September 15th

I had been recommended to see the Pyramids’ in Puebla they are impressive though at first you would not know what they were, the Spanish covered them in dirt and build churches on top so they look very like the small towns in Spain with the church on top of the hill in the town centre. I am glad Carlos at the Motel Milpalta a great place to stay with good internet access recommended them. The City of Puebla is lovely its clean ,modern and there’s good night life the most European city I have been in all the Americas to date., and well worth a visit. I would use Puebla as a base if I return to explore mid-southern Mexico again as its only an hour from Mexico City and right in the middle of the historic sites and between Vera Cruz and Acapulco so every thing is at hand..

I headed of out towards the 190 and south to Oaxaca it was only 400km but all mountain roads and I did not start till 12.00. I stopped at a restaurant to cool down and eat as I had gone from 3000m to 1200m and the temperature had risen considerable. Dinner was the best flat grilled chicken ever , I got talking to the local police man who was in for a cool drink. (see pictures) they are well armed in his car an automatic rifle fitted alongside the gear lever and the hand gun. He had better English than my Spanish so I asked him where were all the Mexican motorcycle cops he said they did not use them on normal roads only toll roads as the Mexican drivers just ran them off the road to avoid conviction. I wonder if that would work back home. My first big mistake was here he said stay the night here lots of partying coming up tonight Mexican independence day, I said thanks but I really need to get nearer the border we had a good chat and I set off.

50km up the road I stopped again for a cold drink Turned the bike off the road and nearly dropped it, a group of men sitting out side the café ran over and supported the bike the rear wheel had bottomed out in a dust hole we pushed the bike out and had a drink I showed them my route on the laptop and they had their translator lad,. It was a good time, yet again it was stay here to night big party good time yet again I said thanks but I must press on. (What a prat I was) 50km up the road big storm rain, thunder. I crawled into the town, rocks the size of footballs were been washed down the main street.

The Motels were 1 mile outside town no facilities other than bed and shower. The camp site was washed down stream. I rode into town and found what looked like a good bet. A nice hotel with secure parking a restaurant, 3 bars just outside on the main road lots of banners for Mexico day It was expensive 350pesco about Ł18 (I know it sound cheap by English standards but here the Teachers only earn about $500 a month so its all relative I am not earning so I have to watch the pennies too.) I showered, when out the bars had all closed, they only opened during the day. The restaurant had 4 staff and only me in it nobody turned up it was a disaster and I was looking forward to a few beers some music etc. I should have stayed in the first town with the police that would have been fun.

September 16th

I headed for the Guatemala Boarder but heavy rain made progress slow I was been hit by the tail end of a hurricane that had just lashed the coast I eventual gave up and booked into a great little hotel that was been renovated for Ł7.50 a night it had no air conditioning though. It was a very hot night 34C I did not get a lot of sleep and was up and on the road at 6.00.

September 17th

I arrived in Tapachula at 15:00 after riding through some great country side mountains and villages just stopping at road side lean two’s for tortillas and cool drinks it was a really nice ride and a lot of happy locals at least I was not considered as mad as the 2 girls that had just passed by going north to America on a Tandem. I rode to the beach it was dirty so I decided not to go fro a swim and headed straight to the Boarder they were happy to let me through but could not stamp the bike exit visa as the office that did them was closed unit Monday at 9.00 so it was back to a hotel for the night.

September 18th

I headed out from the Hotel for the bank to get my exit visa stamped and my motorcycle permit exit stamp, my exit stamp was $20 no problem the motorcycle one they did not know anything about so I head for the main boarder crossing just outside Tapachula. I when straight to the main office and asked about the bike permit nobody had any idea what to do then the top man said go to a different bank back in town, so I went again the same again they did not no what to do with the permit. By now I was well and truly fed up 2 hours wasted and not out of Mexico so I bit the bullet and got one of the agents to bring me through he spent another 2 hours getting no were with the permit till speaking to one of the Guatemala agents who said the Guatemala side when issued would cancel it?. So we went through Mexican exit immigration and around to the Guatemala immigration 90day visa $5, no problem then around to get it all photocopied then to the technical dept for a Spanish rewrite of my documentation ( good for all central and south America) Q700 about $90. Finally to temporary importation $7 for permit and $70 for agent and armed guard who escorted us to front of the queue. It was straight after a Mexican national holiday when import customs had been closed for 2 days leaving massive queues of trucks waiting to go through. And expensive and total waste of time but at least I was in Guatemala.

I headed the CA2 for Guatemala city and there was a great view of the Volcanoes’ the it clouded over and started to rain heavenly it was like that all the way to the city at one stage I was riding through a foot of water on the main road the traffic was very heavy and the diesel fumes unbearable. What the hell was I doing here was my only thought.

I checked a few motels but when the room price was quoted by the hour I decided to head for the city centre and a normal hotel until I could get my bearing with hopefully dry weather. I eventually booked into the Howard Johnson as it was the cheapest place I could find at $61 US a night.

Total mileage 17400

19 September 19th

I was not happy in Guatemala it was wet ,dirty the diesel fumes from the lorry’s poisoned you and noisy. it was also very very expensive $61 for a Howard Johnson hotel and Ł10.50 for dinner, and it did not go down well. Also the noise continued all night, even though I was on the 3 floor. The following morning I decided to get out and go straight to El Salvador if it was as bad there I would probably throw in the towel as they say and just give up and go somewhere civilized.

I decide to try and get some dollars and exchange some of my Sterling. The first bank excepted nothing other than South American cards, the second was able to sell me the local curancey and exchange it back for dollars, but neither would touch sterling. So $400 dollars in the pocket I set off down the CA1 to El Salvador the sky was heavily cloudy so no views. As I approached the boarder the sky cleared it was lovely nice views clean country side happy looking people, and the number of armed police and soldiers was less. I was pulled at one check point were the looked at my documents the chief wanted my driving licence, he was not interested in the bikes documents or visa’s. He immediately had all his boys around and was showing them the difference between My EU UK Licence and his Guatemalan one, all suitable trained and some chat about Alaska to Argentina and it was all clear and off total stop time 10 minutes.

I got to the boarder at 13:30 the whole area was nice, very sedate country side with the kids going of to the lake to fish and nice normal European style houses. At the boarder it was a breeze, no problem the money changer gave me a better rate for my remaining Quezales than the bank, there were no charges to leave it took 5 minutes on the Guatemalan side. El Salvador looks nice even from were I was standing. I rode unto to passport control a big smile 90 day stamp welcome. Back to motorcycle import 1 hour checking vin numbers producing import documents in Spanish a few photo copy’s done cost 50 cents for copy’s a very pleasant and fun time with people practicing their English and me trying to learn some Spanish. A complete contrast to Guatemala from, my point of view.

It is only 35Km from the boarder to Santa Anna so I decided to stop there for the night and relax.

It was great, the town was clean, and buildings were been painted and renovated. People were dressed well and a general air of prosperity once through the industrial area It was like been home proper houses, shopping centre, and all the usually McDonalds, Burger King etc as much as I hate those places they do give a sense of security to me and make you feel at home, just what I need after Guatemala. The best thing about El Salvador is very few visible guns about. I have only seen 2 guns one through a door in a government building on the security guard and one on a solider chatting to his mates all very relaxed. The police I have seen at check points had no weapons visible. A complete contrast to Guatemala and Mexico were there are more guns in a single town than the British army have. In Guatemala I have had 20 guys with automatic rifles standing around the bike, and 2 spent the nigh guarding it.

I found the main hotel. It was smart, very American but wireless internet and $45 a night, but I had seen a sign for a Posada a bit closer to the town centre so I carried on and it was an excellent decision. It’s a small family run business with secure parking for the bike 5 minutes walk to the shopping centre and the daughter spoke excellent English. The buildings a bit passed its prime but clean and the bed was firm so I got a good night sleep it was $20 for the nigh and I was able to fix a couple of minor bits on the bike (faulty indicator and loose bolt). The elder daughter ran a hair salon from the premises so a hair cut for $5 and my laundry done as well it could have been a better introduction to a Country.

September 20th

I woke up refreshed had eggs on toast with plenty of coffee and headed for San Salvador. San Salvador was packed and I rode right through the middle of the market it was abut 5 times the size of Pedicote Lane and every thing you could imagine seemed to be for sale. It’s a nice city but as the country is so small and it was still cloudy I decided to ride though to San Miguel on the boarder with Hondurses. I arrived in San Miguel at 13:30 and booked into the Mandrin Motel, it had wireless internet and a Chinese restaurant although no one in England would recognise the food as Chinese more like paella as the meal was served as one dish. The Rain and thunder started at 21:00 and lasted for 5 hours knocking out the electic. By morning it was all back to normal.

September 21st

I head for the boarder with Honduras it was supposed to be a simple exit, but it was crowded, the exit visa was $10 another $2 for a lad to watch the bike while I queued $7 for a lad to run and get the photo copies. It was then entry visa’s and bike permits, and time to avoid the scams, road tax, document translation, import tax etc I told them to f*** off it’s the same in Spanish and went to the military guard the situation changed rapidly, I was a tourist in transit not an importer etc total cost $5 I have found that the only honest government people in central America seem the mid rank military. They are also educated and speak some if not good English. I thanked the guard and head off across Honduras. It turned out to be smaller than I expected with good roads so I just kept going to Nicaragua. Exit from Honduras was straight forward no cost and entry to Nicaragua which is reputed to be difficult was no cost and took 45 minutes I carried on riding till Leon on the CA2 and booked into the Grand Hotel its not grand and is situated in the middle on a very run down area but its clean and secure for the bike, cost $20. Honduras is poorer than El Salvador and Nicaragua is poorer than Honduras. The people are not as smartly dressed or clean as El Salvador and there’s no factory employment, also the towns lack the US style shopping centres and international restaurants. The houses are shabby and most have no glass in the windows. I will sleep and head to Costa Rica in the morning.

The rain has been a real problem its made taking photos impossible. Today I was riding through heavy rain for 4 hours, the rivers had burst their banks, the fields are flooded and parts of the road washed away. Trucks were driving at 10mph or slower trying to avoid the pot holes and washed out areas. The BMW GS was great; steady as a rock, straight through the lot, when the road was blocked I rode around the side. I got very wet, but I got through. The Gamin GPS has really come into its own here as sigh posts are rare and it easy to drive straight passed the junction with out ever seeing it.

September 22nd

Off toward the Costa Rican boarder. The roads were getting worse, long stretches had simple been washed away the soil here is volcanic and very fertile, its also very porous and easily washes away so in a storm the under layer of soil washes away, the black top collapses and no road, it certainly makes for interesting riding. as I entered the centre of the country it was a lot more prosperous people are better dressed, cleaner and nicer homes, its still poor but on par with England 40 years ago. There were a lot of horse and carts still in use, particular in the rural areas. There where thousands of Swallows flying around Lake Nicaragua. I crossed the boarder with no problems it cost $1 to fumigate the bike, and about $18 for the rest of the formalities. I headed off into Costa Rica.

Costa Rica is total different from any were else I have been in Central America it might as well be in the USA, its like America was 20 years ago, wealthy, dynamitic and educated. The houses are superb and the town and villages could be any where in Western Europe. Nowhere did I see a gun. Other than in the holster of a police man and well covered.

I headed for the small costal town of La Cruz, and originally was intending to stay by the beach but after driving 30km down a dirt road to find one resort closed and the other wanting $100 a night I rode back to the town and stayed in the Mirmas Inn for $20 a night in a superb room with all facilities overlooking the bay. A Germany couple were booked into the same inn and we had a few beers in the bar next door were they served superb grilled fish and banana chips.

September 23rd

I headed off for San Jose the Capital it was a great ride with nice weather through pleasant country side. I was riding down the main road through the country and the trees covered the road completely for long stretches. 60km out of San Jose I met some Costa Rican BMW riders on the latest 1200GS’s we had a soft drink and headed off together into San Jose they knew the best place for me to stay. Unfortunately these guys like to ride fast, the route took us up over the mountains on a great twisty road with superb views and we did it at 80-100 miles an hour in heavy traffic. I will have to go back tomorrow to take pictures if the weather permits. They brought me to the old city and a fantastic little hotel it was $40 a night but walking distance of the city centre. I spend the afternoon relaxing walking around the city centre. The lads had recommended the Sportsman bar around the corner from the hotel but when I went there I realised why, it was full of middle aged Americans with girls of every nation half there age. I had a beer and went round the corner to a restaurant that was much more sedate and had a nice steak before heading back to the hotel to update the wed site.

September 24th

Dinner did no go down as well as it tasted, I think I have gotten to used to bland America food, they don’t spice there food nearly as much as us I have got used to it. Dinner last night was too rich I headed of for Arinal the most active Volcano in Costa Rica. I had to see at least on active volcano while in central America. It wad a 70km run to Arinal, all twisted mountain roads but in superb condition and I ran straight into the San Juan motorcycle clubs Sunday morning run. We rode together for a while before stopping for breakfast they were a realty sociable bunch from all different clubs. See the pictures, the restaurant was at the return point of their run so we took pictures and they took my internet address before I carried on to Arinal.

The Volcano is impressive but all it did in 2 hours was belch, and then the clouds rolled in, I was speaking to some Dutch and Swiss on eco holidays who had been waiting a couple of days with no luck as the cloud completely covered the volcano at night so they could not even see the lave flows glowing. During the day they are a dull brown so don’t show up at all. I headed back south intending to get closer to the boarder but the Sunday traffic was just to heavy so I winded up just south of San Juan in a motel that turned out to be a brothel I spend the first hour just saying know to offer of girls etc but it was clean and only $16 and I need a sleep as it had been a hard days riding despite only doing 250km.

September 25th

I was up at 5 and on my way to the boarder, I crossed into panama at 12 it was straight forward and cost $2. Panama was back to military check points with guns again, but it was no problem for me.

I headed for Santiago but it was heavy rain I stopped for a while hoping it would blow over but no luck so a coffee and cake later so I pressed on. Eventually giving up when I spotted the Green Mountain Eco-centre, they had cabins at $30 a night and a bar / restaurant but no internet and my mobile phone was wet as was every thing. I set every thing up to dey out as best possible a nice dinner and a few beers and it was an early night. This time with out the offers of sex.

Total Mileage today 370 Total Mileage to date: 18610.

September 26th

It’s Panama City to day to sort out the bike transport to Columbia or Ecuador. Panama is an odd country, it’s not as advanced as Costa Rica, but has it the left over’s of the USA and the canal. Because of its size and secure location you would expect Panama to be the most prosperous of Central America, its small and cut off from the south by the Darien gap and has a prosperous northern neighbour so is in an ideal position. When riding through its full of contradictions, people living in sheds next to nice houses, men cutting the grass with machetes for $7 a day and 10 miles further down using petrol lawnmowers for a living wage. US style shopping arcades next to road side shanty towns. About a 100km in from the Costa Rican boarder the road improved dramatically as the fumes from diesel trucks and buses got considerable worst. Another is the weather it rains almost every afternoon arounbt 3pm. I can be very heavy, the buses, they have snorkels on the air in take, and the exhaust pipes are above the roof of the bus. Speaking to an America lady who has retired here, as she can no longer watch her own country get dragged even down further by the republicans. She when on to explain the further contridiction’s in Panamá society how in the hill villages they do not have electricity or running water, and parasitic infections were common place, she was working with a local charity to combat such problems.

September 27th

My 26th Wedding Anniversary today and I have remembered. I deliver the bike to the airport before 13:00 and it’s on its way I follow tomorrow. For those wandering why I am flying its because there is no road or track from Panama to Columbia. They have planned to build one for 30 years, but Gurillia and Drug activity plus some very dificult terain has made it imposible. A few people have made it in 4X4's taking upto a month to travel 60km as you have to go over mountains and through jungle and swamp plus across rivers. The route therefore is either boat or plane, The boat is cheaper but can take severly days, the plane 1 day (hopefully).

, Disaster, I arrived at the airport booked my ticket to Ecuador and headed to drop off the bike. Girac canot ship the bike the plane had broken down the previous night and was stil not operating they would take the bike but could not say when it would be delivered. I spend the next 4 hour sort alternative air transport to Bogota Columbia and then had to have my ticket changed. Hopefully it’s all sorted now but until I am in Columbia on the bike outside customs I will not know for sure.

September 28th

Colombia I arrived at the El Dorado airport 13:00 the same time as the plane shipping my bike, I identified the shipping area for Panavia and headed for an hotel via Taxi, as it would be some time before the plane was unloaded and I could collect the bike. The taxi driver was brilliant she brought me to the American Central it was $65 but no parking and was under reconstruction so I said make it the Capital Hotel, it’s right by the airport a $120 a night, but secure parking and internet and its only one night I hope.

I headed back to the Airport at 15:30 my bike had just been brought from the plane on a pallet 3 hours later I was riding to the hotel, customs etc all done total cost Ł20. While waiting I had dinner at the lean- to café that the airport cargo workers use for lunch etc, in the past I had used some of these at Heathrow working with Stuart Forest a nice guys who is going to sail around the world one day. Well Stuart sort out Heathrow I had the best Chicken pasties you can imagine with a drink called Columbian that to me was Tizer and cream donuts a big feed for $2. And for the smokers the fags were free.

I spend the evening in the hotel bar relaxing as one should every now and then, a good band were playing and the female singer decided it was time to improve her English, nice for me.

September 29th

I had breakfast and headed for Cali. Bogota is a lovely city but I am not into city’s I have not gone round the museums in London and Dublin and only had a cursory glance at the Louvre in Paris. I head out through Bogota the scenery is great, the city is on top of the mountains and soon I was going up and down valleys that have to be seen to be believed. The country is superb, as are the roads if only there were not as many trucks. Another good thing is that bikes here do not pay toll on the roads however riders do have to wear reflective jackets with there number plate ID on, so I got stopped 4 time’s, no problem just a good laugh and nice people as soon as they realised that I was a tourist and not some local breaking the rules.

In one area of very heavy traffic going through mountain passes a lad on a Suzuki 100 was playing catch up we had a bit of a laugh and ended up pulling over for a drink to cool down. He ( Miguel Antony)was going home for the weekend to his family he worked in Bogota, in internet translation but went home at weekends to Ibague. I ended up having lunch with his family they were a lovely bunch and his sister a great cook. (See the pictures his niece is sitting on the bike).

I ended up 2 hours late heading for Cali from Ibague. And then to make matters worst coming over the main pass to Armenia a traffic accident, 2 trucks had a head on collision at a 180 degree bend, one truck lost its front end the other its container that landed blocking the road in both directions, The container was jammed against the Clift at one end and over the other, not even a bike could get through. 2 hours later they had lifted the container and as soon as a gap appeared the bikes ploughed through. Lucky nobody was injured in what looked like a major incident. The traffic jams in both directions were severely miles along though bikes just went to the front.

If you are touring Colombia, the road from Bogota to Ibague has great camp sites and resorts. It’s where the Colombians go for there holidays if not the coast. The sites are very safe and there are dozens of them all along the main road. Additional safety is ensured by the proximity of the Air force and Army base only a few km up the road. I was hearing an odd noise coming from the back of my bike until I realised it was an Helicopter in near silent mode just above and behind the bike it was a beating type noise. It hovered for a few minutes and then sped off.

Due to the delay I decide to find a hotel in Armenia as it was 17:30 and dusk setting in. I ended up at the Palma Verde it was $55 a night and like a palace absolutely superb. I would recommend it to any body, a great restaurant. I had the best Fillet steak possible for $9, good beer a pool, gym and rooms that could take a family of 6. Secure parking and internet access. So I was very happy and settled in to relax for the evening, Colombian women are very good looking.

September 30th

I was up early as usual and making use of the internet to bring everything up to date, This hotel is superb its small friendly and a cross between and upmarket resort and a 5* hotel at a price that for a European is about the same as a Travelodge. If anyone reading this wants to relax some where on a trip too South American make it here, you will love it. Another thing about this area is that there are no North Americans, they are all afraid to come as the publicity in the States is negative on Colombia. After driving through this country I suspect that the US government is more afraid that its people will realise they are been well and truly taken for a ride as the standard of living here is high, the roads excellent and they have all the modern toys and lots speak excellent English. I see no difference between working people who live in a poor brick building and those all over the States living in trailer parks. In fact I would rather live here, there’s more to do and the food is of much higher quality.

I arrived in Cali at 13:00 only one truck crash and no hold up. I had noted the name and address of a suitable hotel off the internet but made the mistake of not writing down the street number. While looking for the hotel in a very large city I stopped to ask a police man if he knew where it was, he did not but another man on a motorcycle stopped and said follow me I will show you. I though what the hell and followed, we got to the hotel but the secure parking they were supposed to have, was nonexistent. My guide Luis Gomzales a very nice guy of my about my age said no problem, follow me and we when to the old part of the City centre near a building his construction company was renovating. He was on the way home when he spotted me asking direction, he spoke English and was a superb ambassador for his country. Just up from his office was a small hotel the Posada De San Antonio it was beautiful, I rode the bike into the courtyard and booked in for 2 days. That afternoon I relaxed showing the locals pictures of my journey and playing dominoes’ I lost 1 dollar. For dinner that night I went local, steak, beans, rice, yam, goats cheese. Potato soup And a glass of fruit juice Ł1.25. Life is hard on the road. For anybody interested the address is Cra 5 No 3-37 Cali, Colombia tele: 893 74 13. Jose Ariel Cardona m.. Email: hposidasantonio@telesat.com.co